Destination - Muscat, Oman
Many years ago, I lived in a place where time stood still; the Sultanate of Oman. i was there to teach scuba diving, so my work days were spent exploring numerous intact shipwrecks - some still laden with cargo - and admiring the impressive network of colorful coral reefs.
My one day off each week was generally involved bouncing along dried-out Wadi (river) beds in my 4x4, exploring ancient forts, or abseiling into a sinkhole or canyon. Everything was exotic, mysterious and beautiful. I was high on the thrill of raw adventure in a Frontierland straight from the pages of Lawrence of Arabia!
At the time, the Sultanate had not yet opened to tourism, and just one tar-sealed road meandered its way from the old walled city, through the hills and towards the Wahiba (empty quarter). If you knew where to look, you could still witness tell-tale signs of Oman’s fractious history, when one Sultan ruled Zanzibar and its trade in both slaves and gold, while his brother - the Sultan of Muscat - ruled what would later become the Sultanate of Oman, and its trade in Frankincense; destined for the Roman Catholic church.
Only the Intrepid
Since that time, the country has changed greatly and - although it’s rich cultural tapestry remains proudly intact - there’s now no shortage of luxury hotels that cater to well-heeled tourists. Oman remains however, a well-kept tourism secret, where intrepid travelers can discover its expansive coastline bristling with marine life, jaw-dropping landscape of mountains and deserts, and hidden wadis with lagoons or waterfalls.
However, before you mark it on your wish list - which you SHOULD - it’s important to note that Oman is not a place for backpackers, bargain travelers, or thong-wearing influencers. It is staunchly conservative, Muslim, and refined, so you’d best be prepared to respect that!
The capital, Muscat lies tucked between the craggy Jebel Akhdar mountains and the shimmering Gulf of Oman. The city remains an enchanting blend of tradition and modernity, culture and adventure, where kind locals greet with genuine warm smiles and an offer of coffee. Unlike the glitzy cities of its Gulf neighbors, Muscat charms with its authenticity, natural beauty, and the hospitality of its people.
Following are my personal recommendations for becoming intoxicated with this incredible destination:
Architectural Wonders
Start your relationship with Oman by breathing in a dose of architectural awe. The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is a serene masterpiece of Islamic architecture with intricate mosaics, a massive crystal chandelier, and the world’s second-largest hand-woven carpet. Be sure to arrive early in the morning to enjoy the peaceful ambiance and take stunning photos in the golden light. My suggestion is to visit with a female Omani, so she can escort you. Be sure to cover arms, legs, torso and wear a head covering.
The next place I suggest viewing is a quite surprising find in the Middle East; Muscat’s Royal Opera House, which is a stunning venue that has been known to host many world-class performances ranging from ballet and jazz to traditional Arabic music. Even if you don’t catch a show, take the guided tour to appreciate the architecture and elegance.
Al Alam is the ceremonial palace of the Sultan. While you can’t go inside, the exterior and surrounding area both quiet and extremely photogenic, as the striking blue-and-gold building is flanked by two 16th-century Portuguese forts; Al Jalali and Al Mirani.
Mutrah Souq
Souqs in the middle East never fail to make you feel as if you’ve been transported back in time and - being one of the oldest markets in the Arab world - Mutrah Souq will astound you. The maze of alleys is packed with stalls selling frankincense, pashminas, antique silver, spices, and handcrafted Omani daggers (khanjars). Haggling is expected, and is part of the fun. The spice area is wonderfully fragrant. Keep an eye out also for amber and silver jewelry, as well as wood items inlaid with Mother of Pearl.
Sunset Dhow Cruise
As the sun starts to set, join the local families as they take a leisurely stroll along the Corniche. The sight of the old forts high on the hills, and the traditional wooden dhow gently bobbing in the harbor is one that you’ll want to photograph and mount when you return home.
Purchase a ticket to join one of the sunset cruises that follow the coastline. This provides a jaw-dropping vantage point to enjoy the warm glow that’s cast across the city, as the sea appears to transform into molten gold. Don’t expect to be toasting with champagne or a beer though. Honor tradition instead by pairing the experience with delicious Omani dates and a cup of cardamom-scented kahwa (coffee).
Omani Bullfights
Bull butting in Oman is a fascinating tradition, passed down through generations and held in towns across the country—often on Fridays. Head to Barka, just outside Muscat, to witness it for yourself. The fights are short and there are dozens that take place throughout the day, but they are unscheduled, and finding out when a bullfight is on does require a bit of insider knowledge.
Thankfully, unlike the Spanish version, Omani bullfighting is bloodless. There are no matadors, no drama; just two muscular Brahmin bulls that can weigh up to 1,100kg, pushing and posturing until one backs off. Occasionally though, one does escape and then the fun really happens! It’s an exhilarating experience.
Camel Races
Camel racing is an incredibly popular sport throughout the Middle East, where prize camels fetch eyewatering amounts. These ‘Ships of the Desert’ can lollop along at speeds of up to 64 kilometers per hour, with lightweight jockeys perched high on their backs. Some jockeys are drafted and make their professional debuts as young as five years old, and the crowd’s enthusiasm is contagious. Racedays are not announced long in advance, so again, you’ll need to ask your hotel concierge to find someone who is in the know.
The Daymaniyat Islands
Diving is my personal passion, but if you’re not a diver, snorkeling will still delight. Take a boat tour from Muscat out to the Daymaniyat Islands; a protected marine reserve that’s absolutely teeming with life. You’ll see corals, turtles, and a huge array of exotic fish, as the islands offer some of the best underwater experiences in the Gulf. Just please do not touch the coral (it kills the tiny creatures), and be sure to use only coral-safe sunscreen.
Hike Through Wadi Shab
Drive a couple of hours from Muscat to Wadi Shab for an unforgettable day trip. Hike through a canyon, wade through turquoise pools, and swim into a hidden cave with a waterfall. You can also book abseiling adventures and visit local villages in the area. Wear good shoes, bring water, and be ready for an adventure!
Turtle Time
The Ras al Had Turtle Reserve covers an area of 120 square kilometres of beaches, coastal lands, seabed and two Khaurs or lagoons (Khaur al Hajar and Khaur Jarama). It extends for 45 km along the coast from khaur Jarama in the north to the village of Ras Ruwais in the south. It is rocky in some parts, but has several steep sandy beaches, where, at certain times of the year, thousands of Green Turtles come to nest. Yes, you read that rights: THOUSANDS!!! in fact, the number of Green Turtles which nest on over 275 beaches along Oman's coastline is estimated to be about 20,000. This makes the Sultanate one of the most important nesting areas for green turtles in the Indian Ocean, and Oman, a magnet for tourtle tourism!
In addition to its scenic values, the Ras al Had area contains several archaeological sites of national significance located within Ras al Had Peninsula, around Khaur Jarama, Ras al Jinz and along the coast of Ras al Khaba.
Dune Bashing in the Wahiba Sands
Ready for a thrill? Book a desert safari into the Wahiba Sands. Skilled drivers take you on a rollercoaster ride across classic towering dunes, followed by sunset camel rides and a night under the stars at a Bedouin-style camp. It’s an unforgettable Omani adventure, that you really can’t replicate!
Travel Tips
Best time to visit: November to March, when the weather is cooler.
Dress modestly: Especially when visiting religious sites. Long pants and sleeves are recommended.
Getting around: Taxis are plentiful, but renting a car gives you flexibility for day trips.
Local etiquette: Omanis are warm and respectful. A smile goes a long way. Never eat or pass food with your left hand (that’s reserved for toileting).
Whether you're a culture seeker, a nature lover, or an adrenaline junkie, Oman is likely to captivate you, as it certainly did me. The Capital of Muscat is not just a destination; it’s a gateway to a gentler, more soulful kind of travel.
Note: Oman Air offers well-priced flights from Thailand to the UK and Europe, so I strongly recommend taking advantage of the free stopover they offer, and giving yourself time to explore.
