Wandering through the cobblestone streets of Sarlat-la-Canéda, you're greeted by the enticing aromas of freshly baked bread, aged cheese, rich coffee, and garlic wafting from the charming cafes. The relaxed locals, engaged in conversation, are easily distinguished from the wide-eyed tourists scurrying about to absorb every piece of the town's 1,400-year history. Yet, Sarlat is just a picturesque stopover, as the true treasures of the Dordogne lie closer to the region's namesake river, where villages brim with charm AND affordable homes!

I spent part of my youth in this peaceful corner of southwestern France. My grandparents, like many from the north, relocated here after the war, fleeing the destruction near their village on the German border in the Netherlands. My grandmother filled her days cooking delightful meals and playing the piano, while my grandfather tended his garden and painted the rolling hills visible from their veranda.

I remember a castle ruin nestled among wildflowers, and a village boulangerie conveniently located next to the charcuterie and a small hotel, whose wine ensured its enduring popularity. It was a sleepy town back then, yet—like many places in France—it held its own historical significance, occasionally drawing a wandering tourist.

Today, few of those original inhabitants or their descendants remain. As in many European villages, the homes once lovingly maintained by elderly residents were often abandoned after their passing, with descendants seeking work in urban areas and unwilling to take on properties that required upkeep and additional taxes.

Then, almost magically, the village experienced a revival. A new wave of middle-aged Dutch and English retirees moved in, renovating homes and allowing history to continue for another generation. Art galleries opened, charming gîtes welcomed guests from around the world, and Ste Alvère came alive once again with a strong sense of community.

War and Peace

The Dordogne is known as the cradle of humanity, where the dwellings of Cro-Magnon Man still stand. Conquered by the Romans and coveted by the English in the Middle Ages, the region is celebrated for its pleasant climate, exquisite cuisine, natural beauty, and rich cultural heritage.

At the heart of it all is the Dordogne River, both a blessing and a curse, with its history of floods and droughts. Historically, it divided French castles from English strongholds, witnessing far too many bloody battles.

Ancient vineyards crisscross the valley like a finely stitched quilt, framed by forests and cliffs marked with troglodyte dwellings. Flowers spill from the windows and fences of quaint cottages, with fat clusters of roses heavy with fragrant blooms.

Beyond the renowned truffles, foie gras, organic produce, and fine wines, the Lascaux cave paintings draw visitors from around the world. The region also boasts grottoes with fresh water springs, galleries and markets, historic sites, outdoor activities, and a vibrant calendar of cultural events, offering residents an enviable and well-balanced lifestyle.

Queen of the Castle?

Of the 40,000 castles in France, only 10 percent remain state-owned, with the rest either abandoned or privately held. Some have been transformed into enchanting wedding venues, others into luxurious boutique hotels, and an increasing number are being subdivided and repurposed as family homes or apartments.

While staying with a friend in one of the small villages along the river, we discovered that the local castle, two hotels, and several homes were for sale. Even the baker's home and shop were on the market, offered at a bargain to anyone seeking a slower pace of life.

Due to urban migration, homes here are surprisingly affordable. A six-bedroom freestanding house—requiring some cosmetic updates and modernization—was listed for under 100,000 euros, and even castles can be purchased for under a million euros, though those with significant acreage typically command double that price.

For retirees, the Dordogne is a region well worth exploring. Beyond the food, tourist attractions, and natural beauty, it offers an abundance of charming homes in safe communities at affordable prices.

Useful Links:

Regional tourism: https://www.visit-dordogne-valley.co.uk/

Property for sale: https://www.my-french-house.com/properties-dordogne.shtml

Relocation guide: https://internationalliving.com/countries/france/move/

Visa information: https://france-visas.gouv.fr/en/long-stay-visa